Stella McCartney Laptop to Lapdance collection coat and bag from a selection, POA
The legendary Parisian editor Carine Roitfeld once opined that women should retire or choose muted leopard prints over the age of 40 (for fear of looking predatory) and migrate to subtler snakeskin. But time and context have a habit of changing both the medium and the message. Now animal prints are back, beckoning us with their optic brilliance, symbolic power and undisputed glamour.
While leopard – in all manner of patterns and hues, from gingery-brown spots to stark black/white and classic tan/black – remains a top contender, the big cat has been joined by a menagerie of species from dappled pony skin to python and zebra. Styles span blazers, car coats, tailored trousers and pencil skirts, through to handbags, headwear and heels. And following a year of plain hues and matte materials, the vibrancy is deeply appealing, a little risky and sexually switched on.
'Animal prints sit at the crossroads of identity and instinct. They’re bold, tactile and emotionally charged – inviting wearers to express facets that might otherwise stay hidden,' says fashion psychologist Jennifer Heinen, who coaches clients in matters of style and identity. 'Whether it’s the confidence of a leopard-print coat or the rebellion of a zebra mini, these prints act as “visual amplifiers”. They intensify presence.'
There’s also a neurological component: the brain is wired to notice high-contrast patterns such as stripes and spots. So, animal prints are literally attention-grabbing. They’re also loaded with pop-cultural and historical status that might range from royalty draped in ermine, to supermodels in Alaïa leopard to pub landladies in ‘big cat’ blouses. The prints have slithered in and out of fashion over the decades, accompanying a resurgence in glamour and a clamouring for attention. 'Today, animal prints are less about dominance and more about duality. They allow wearers to embody both the wild and the refined. A snakeskin heel might feel sleek and elegant – but underneath is a pulse of danger. A tiger-print blouse can signal bold femininity and playful subversion,' adds Heinen, noting how Gen Z is reclaiming animal prints as genderless, ironic or nostalgic.
The prompt to incorporate animal print in design and style is often instinctive. Accessory designer Tissa Fontaneda took the cue while rewatching Anthony Minghella’s 1996 film of The English Patient. 'A story steeped in passion, exoticism and the mystique of Africa. In this context, leopard print emerged capturing the spirit of the moment,' says Fontaneda. The upshot is a flap shoulder bag in leopard-print calf hair with a polished horn fastening. For Stella McCartney, a staunch vegetarian and animal rights activist, faux snakeskin becomes a protest against the use of exotic skins. In her latest line-up, Laptop to Lapdance, pixellated snakeskin appears on viscose and jersey pieces, while mycelium-based material is fashioned into handbags.
Meanwhile, Swiss designer Kevin Germainer deep-dives into optics with his latest collection, entitled Les Jouesse. 'I experimented with prints – polka dots, snake, painted leopard, stripes – with bold colour combinations and exaggerated volumes. It felt light-hearted, dynamic and energetic,' he says.
How best to get dressed? First, banish self-limiting associations such as ‘cougar’ and start from a point of playfulness. If in doubt, mix with pale blue or apricot, which nicely offset the wild girl edges.
